Running of the Bulls: Spain’s most iconic (and controversial) festival
This ancient festival is one of Spain’s most iconic – and controversial.
What is it?
Dating back to at least the 13th century, the Fiesta de San Fermin (or, in English, the Running of the Bulls) began as a way to move bulls through the city of Pamplona from the corral to the bullfighting ring. People began to join in around the 1800s and now run through the streets just in front of the herd. Ernest Hemingway made the festival famous in his 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises, which was the first time most people outside of Spain became aware of it. It is now one of the biggest and most famous festivals in the world, a week-long party that transforms the city.
Where is it?
The city of Pamplona is the capital of the Navarre province in northern Spain. It is part of the fiercely independent Basque region and is dotted with fortifications, castles and cathedrals dating back to the 16th century.
What should I expect?
The opening ceremony is held on July 6 and the main square of Pamplona overflows with people dressed in white with red scarves, drinking lots of sangria and waiting for the mayor to set off the rockets that signal the start of the festival. It’s madness – a huge crush of people, screaming and chanting, and things can get a little out of control.
The festival itself runs for a week, from July 7 to 14, with a run every day at 8am. The course is around 850 metres long, with six fighting bulls and six tame oxen wearing bells winding through the narrow streets of the old city. Thousands of participants from around the world join in and many thousands more watch from the sidelines or balconies above the chaos. It only takes a few minutes and the runners (and bulls) will burst into the bullring and out of harms way.
Traditional bullfights are held each evening in the Plaza del Toros, though these are fights to the death and may not be for everyone.
Why is it controversial?
This is the tricky part. The festival has drawn criticism for a number of reasons. Firstly, many animal rights groups claim that it is cruel to the bulls, especially the bullfighting. The Spanish maintain that it is an integral part of their culture, so you’ll have to decide for yourself. Each year, many participants are injured during the run and some even die. Matadors have also been badly gored and killed in the bullring. Then there’s the drinking – people come from around the world to party at San Fermin and it can become overwhelming. Huge crowds of drunk, generally young, people will fill the streets and it often descends into chaos. Having said all that, it is a truly incredible experience for any traveller. Just be prepared.
Have you ever been to the Running of the Bulls? Share your opinion in the comments below.