106-year-old tattoo artist becomes Vogue’s oldest cover star
<p>Apo Maria ‘Whang-Od’ Oggay has made history as the oldest woman to have featured on the cover of <em>Vogue</em>. </p>
<p>Regarded as the last mambabatok of her generation, Whang-Od was born in the remote village of Buscalan in the northern Philippines’ province of Kalinga in 1918, and entered the world of tattooing at just 16 years old. </p>
<p>As <em>Vogue Philippines</em>’s editor-in-chief Bea Valdes explained of their decision to feature her on the cover, “we felt she represented our ideals of what is beautiful about our Filipino culture.</p>
<p>"We believe that the concept of beauty needs to evolve, and include diverse and inclusive faces and forms. What we hope to speak about is the beauty of humanity.”</p>
<p>And Whang-Od was the perfect choice. <em>Vogue Philippines</em>’ demonstrated as much when they wrote on Twitter that “the symbols of the Kalinga tribe signifying strength, bravery & beauty” are imprinted on her skin, and that Whang-Od embodies the “strength and beauty of the Filipino spirit”.</p>
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet">
<p dir="ltr" lang="en">Apo Maria “Whang-Od” Oggay symbolizes the strength and beauty of the Filipino spirit. </p>
<p>Heralded as the last mambabatok of her generation, she has imprinted the symbols of the Kalinga tribe signifying strength, bravery & beauty on the skin. </p>
<p>Read more on <a href="https://t.co/2F1mJ5iQWG">https://t.co/2F1mJ5iQWG</a>. <a href="https://t.co/urVcA3g2Ek">pic.twitter.com/urVcA3g2Ek</a></p>
<p>— Vogue Philippines (@vogueph) <a href="https://twitter.com/vogueph/status/1641276503433572353?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">March 30, 2023</a></p></blockquote>
<p>As tattoo anthropologist Dr Lars Krutak found out for <em>Vogue</em>, it was through Whang-Od’s father’s mentorship that she launched her career in tattooing. She was the first - and only - mambabatok of her time, and would spend her time visiting neighbouring villages - and beyond - to “to imprint the sacred symbols of their ancestors on individuals who have crossed or about to cross a threshold in their lives.”</p>
<p>Her own life story can be found on her skin - featuring everything from her accomplishments to her ailments, and even the names of past lovers - in a story of beauty, bravery, and the heritage of the Kalinga tribe. </p>
<p>For men, tattoos reflected them as “a headhunting warrior”, while women were typically tattooed for “fertility and beautification”. As <em>Vogue</em> reported, the elder women of Kalinga say that “when they die, they can’t take their beads and gold with them to the afterlife. They only have the markings on their body.” </p>
<p>As <em>Vogue</em> went on to cover, decades of colonial erasure had a significant impact on batok - in Kalinga, village girls had to cover their arms, while many others abandoned the art. </p>
<p>But through Whang-Od and her descendants, the ancient art of batok will continue - both in Buscalan and the rest of the world. </p>
<p>Batok itself, as explained by the <em>Vogue</em> team who had the honour of receiving a tattoo from Whang-Od, involves “an unused gisi, a bamboo stick with a thorn attached to one end” and a pattern traced “using a length of grass dipped in the soot and charcoal mixture”. </p>
<p>The process then sees Whang-Od hold the inked gisi in one hand, while she “uses a larger stick to whack it with her right hand, driving it over a hundred times per minute into the flesh until the three dots are filled and oozing with blood and ink. She dabs at them with a wet wipe before deciding to go over the freshly wounded spots again for good measure.”</p>
<p>And now, Whang-Od has been teaching her craft to her grand-niece, Grace Palicas. </p>
<p>Under Whang-Od’s mentorship, the thousand-year-old tradition will live on, as the next generation of stick-and-thorn artists strive to preserve their craft, and share it with the world. </p>
<p>As for Whang-Od herself? Her plans are quite simple, with the artist explaining that “when visitors come from far away, I will give them the tatak Buscalan, tatak Kalinga for as long as my eyes can see.”</p>
<p><em>Images: Instagram</em></p>
