The problem with “all-natural” skincare products
As we become increasingly conscious of what we're putting in our body, we are also becoming more aware of what we put on our body.
The growth rate for natural skincare products alone is growing faster than the overall skincare market, as more consumers demand products free from unnecessary chemicals, parabens, additives or fillers.
Unfortunately, just because a product is "natural" and free of so-called nasties doesn't mean it comes without risk, as Mary Jo Fay found out the hard way.
The 60-year-old American woke the day after applying a "natural", plant-based anti-ageing cream and found her face bright red and feeling as though her skin was burning.
"I almost went to the emergency room, it was so sudden and intense," she told “The TODAY Show” in America. "I never had had a reaction like that. It scared me to death."
While the sensation and the redness subsided after the former nurse applied ice packs to her face, the reaction she experienced is becoming more common as "natural" products become more popular.
"Natural cosmetics may not always be a better choice," Choice advises in a new report on the chemicals in cosmetics. "For example, many natural ingredients can cause skin reactions and allergies, including lavender, tea tree oil, lanolin, cinnamon (and derivatives), citrus oils and various essential oils. Some, such as lavender and tea tree oils, have been linked with hormone disruption in boys."
Dr Bruce Brod, a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania, commenting on Fay's case, said there was a perception that if it is "natural" or "organic" it must be inherently healthier to use.
"I think it's important for the public to be aware that just because something is all natural, it doesn't mean it doesn't cause side effects," Brod told TODAY. "Take poison ivy. That's natural. But it contains a chemical that causes an allergic reaction if you touch it."
Founder of organic skincare brand, Mukti Organics, Mukti says there is no foolproof way to tell if a product will cause a problem.
"Sensitivities are extremely difficult to pin point," says Mukti, who has a background as a natural therapist and in cosmetic chemistry. "If the acid mantle has been irritated and stripped due to the use of harsh surfactants, and smothered in mineral oils it can be very easily irritated."
Mukti suggests choosing products with ingredients known for their calming properties.
"Soothing and calming ingredients include aloe vera, chamomile, calendula, gotu kola, vitamin E," she says.
"Generally you would be looking for botanical extracts that are soothing and calming."
That said, one study from 2015 found a 25 per cent increase over the past decade in reactions to essential oils including jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, chamomile and neroli.
To test how a product reacts with your skin, Mukti suggests introducing one product at a time, using your arm as a patch test first (leaving a product on overnight) and avoiding essential oils, "especially citrus".
The potential benefits of natural cosmetic ingredients are:
- Aloe vera is beneficial and suitable for most skin types so look for this at the top of the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) list.
- Willow extract contains the active salicin – a glucoside of salicylic acid similar to aspirin.
- Liquorice root is good for inflammation – the active contains glycyrrhizin and is converted to glycyrrehetic acid in the body.
- Chamomile – the active constituent is bisabolol. Recent clinical trials have demonstrated that it is nearly as effective as 0.25 per cent hydrocortisone creams.
- Oatmeal can be used topically to treat rashes, burns, itches and inflammation. The key actives are called avenanthramides that act as a skin protectant.
- Vitamin E is an excellent moisturiser and improves hydration and prevents loss of moisture.
- Antioxidants assist with protecting and maintaining the integrity of the skin and from the effects of extrinsic ageing such UV light, pollution and free radicals.
Do you prefer “all natural” skincare products, are have you found it makes no difference? Let us know in the comments below.
Written by Sarah Berry. First appeared on Stuff.co.nz.
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