The unmissable spot in the Northern Territory
“Made famous as a harsh and isolated outpost by Jeannie Gunn in her book We of the Never Never, Mataranka is now a welcoming Northern Territory outback town south of Katherine, equally famous for its spring-fed thermal pools as its literary history.
Its natural swimming pools in Elsey National Park, such as Bitter Springs and Rainbow Springs, are inviting, warm and crystal clear. Shaded by lush palms, you might even share the water with a friendly turtle. They offer a welcome respite from the heat of the outback, or could be just the place to unwind after a day spent fishing for barramundi on the nearby Roper River.
But you can’t escape from the fact that this is ‘Never Never’ country, a name adopted by the locals in celebration of the place they now hold in Australian folklore. When Aeneas and Jeannie Gunn were posted to Mataranka in 1902 to live on and manage Elsey Station, Jeannie was the first white woman in the area. She published the book as an account of her experience, which lasted only until her husband’s death from malarial dysentery in 1903. The book has since sold over a million copies and visitors to Mataranka can experience a replica of the Gunns’ original homestead, which was built for the 1982 movie version of the book.
Mataranka has an ability to bring people from all walks of life together. It isn’t flashy and there is no resort, but you can get a good meal at the pub. And then, of course, there are the hot springs – they’re like a spa and their turquoise water is glorious. It’s easy to spend hours soaking in them.” – Janet Denton, Marion, South Australia
What to do:
- Join the twice-daily barramundi feeding at Territory Manor, a unique celebration of the Top End’s most famous fish.
- Drop into the Never Never Museum in town, which showcases early settler history alongside that of the region’s traditional custodians, the Mangarayi and Yangman people. It also has displays on the Australian Overland Telegraph Line and the North Australia Railway.
- Visit Elsey National Park for a soak in the natural hot springs, or to canoe or fish on the mighty Roper River.
“The locals of Mataranka, like farmer Jim Sullivan, struck such a chord with us that we often reminisce about them fondly. The town itself is not much more than a tiny main street, its centrepiece being the life-size statues based on Jeannie Gunn’s book We of the Never Never. The statues not only add character to the town, but they bring the history of the region alive and pay homage to the pioneering settlers who took on such a remote and unforgiving part of the world. The springs are an absolute must. In the outback heat, they’re like a gift from Mother Nature. (And don’t worry about crocodiles! They don’t inhabit the thermal springs.)
Surrounded by the shade of Elsey National Park, the water is like a bath so you don’t want to get out! Hanging out with fellow travellers from all over the world, we spent an entire day mesmerised by our lush surroundings, floating around in the crystal clear waters, and cruising downstream with the current. To our daughter Charli’s delight, we even spotted a few turtles! Our time in Mataranka ended on the Roper River fishing for barramundi. I can’t say we had any luck(!) but we were totally captivated by the vibrant outback sunset that lit up the water.” – Jen and Clint
This is an edited extract from Australia’s Ultimate Bucket List by Jennifer Adams & Clint Bizzell published by Hardie Grant Books RRP $29.99 and is available in stores nationally.