Discovering the real Italy in Puglia
Puglia, the southern Italian region where the traditional way of life is alive and well, and where the cuisine is inspiring chefs worldwide. This has become the new must-see destination for travellers in the know.
Drawn by these aspects, our group of eight travellers find themselves on a balmy summer evening beside the 16th century tower of the Masseria Garrappa. Visiting this historic farmhouse means getting in touch with the people and the land, two elements that make Puglia such a rich and varied place to visit. We are here to cook a full four course meal, much of which we make from produce grown right here in the garden. During the preparations, an insight for some is the use of three different types of tomatoes in this meal, each selected for its suitability for the dish – the juicy plump variety used to top the focaccia is very different from the sweet “datteri” variety used for the pasta sauce. And this is an indication of the philosophy of Pugliese cuisine – simple ingredients, locally grown, combined in dishes with an innate understanding of their properties born out of generations upon generations of making these meals.
Travelling through Puglia is like a breath of fresh air for people who have come from the main tourist destinations such as Rome or Florence, where the piazzas are heaving with tourists. Here in the south, this Italy reveals itself to you gradually as you take the time to appreciate the rhythm of life based around the land and the seasons. But the revelation for many first-time visitors is the sheer number of significant artistic and historic treasures scattered throughout the region.
The group of eight discovering the culinary pleasures at the Masseria Garrappa farmhouse is doing a week-long tour with the boutique travel company Italy With Pleasure. The highlights of the week vary depending on the person, but could be Alberobello, with the famous “trulli” conical houses lining the streets making it look like something out of a fairytale. This is one of several UNESCO World Heritage sites visited during the week. Some people count Lecce as a highlight, with its abundance of ornate baroque buildings resulting from the exuberance of a golden age for this town in the 18th century. For others the unique cave town of Matera is the most memorable location, which is visited in the neighbouring region of Basilicata, with its underground churches and Byzantine frescoes. Visitors are often surprised to find that Matera is one of the oldest continually inhabited places on earth.
For some it is actually not a single place at all that is the highlight, but rather it is the food. The cuisine of Puglia has developed based on the produce at a very local level, so is different to the food from other Italian regions. Vegetable based dishes such as grilled zucchini or aubergine predominate, as well as foccaccia and other breads. All these are based on the abundant fresh ingredients as well as the ever-present extra virgin olive oil. The purity of flavour expressed in this cuisine is gaining it a reputation internationally, so you’ll now find Pugliese dishes in top international restaurants. Puglia has the quintessential Mediterranean diet, and can be considered a “foodie heaven” such is the quality of the fresh produce here. With an extensive coastline, seafood is the other major aspect of the Pugliese diet.
Earlier in the week, having lunch in the coastal town of Polignano A Mare was a hit for everyone. Here we dined on a terrace overlooking the turquoise waters of the Adriatic, alongside the town with whitewashed building stacked up over the cliff, seemingly suspended over the waves. In keeping with the coastal location this lunch was focussed on seafood, serving up the catch from the small wooden fishing boats that ply these waters by night. Every day we have had a long lunch, three or four courses chosen to showcase the region’s cuisine. Then there’s the wine – Puglia is undergoing a vinous renaissance, with many top quality wines on offer. But don’t expect to recognise many of the names, the grapes used are typically grown only in this area. Have you ever heard of the red wine susumaniello, or the white wine Bianco d’Alessano?
During this week organised by Italy With Pleasure the group stay in the heart of the elegant hill town Martina Franca. The historic centre of Martina Franca is lined with elegant baroque palaces of the old noble families, evocative lanes amongst the whitewashed buildings, and piazzas where the traditional “passeggiata” is in full swing every evening. Our rooms are in beautiful 18th century palazzi, with high vaulted ceilings and the ubiquitous limestone paving adding to the sense of history. For this week, we live amongst it. Staying right in the town centre gives a feeling of being immersed in the local lifestyle, and by the end of the week we’re greeting our neighbours with a “buongiorno” every morning!
Leigh, from Wairarapa in New Zealand, travelled in June 2016 and describes her week: “I am widely travelled. It was the absolute highlight of my travels in Italy and definitely the best food I had the whole time. We were all ‘foodies’ so immediately had a lot in common. The pace was leisurely and after a morning exploring different villages we adjourned for an amazing long lunch. This was the real surprise as every day it was in a different town with a menu totally focused on regional specialties. It was really just like traveling with a group of friends.”
And as with many people, it is getting to know the town where we stay as much as the sights that remain with them long after they depart. Leigh again: “Another real highlight was staying in Martina Franca. Very comfortable and right in the heart of the village which is very quaint and un-touristy”.
So this is how the week unfolds in Puglia. To some a lesser known Italian region, but as our group has discovered, the complex history from the ancient Greeks through to modern times has all added to a deep cultural knowledge that continues to be a vibrant part of life today. By experiencing firsthand the food, culture and lifestyle throughout this week, we have become part of the living traditions.
Italy With Pleasure runs small Group tours in Puglia, Sicily and the Amalfi Coast. See www.italywithpleasure.com for details.
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