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The last surviving village is a portal to the past

Nestled across three acres of land in north-eastern Singapore lies Kampong Lorong Buangkok, Singapore’s last surviving village where fragments of the 60s are still kicking on.

Unlike Singapore’s towering skyscrapers and urban sprawl, the squat bungalows of the village remain as a snapshot of how the city used to look.

The kampong - meaning “village” in Milay - is made up of about 25 wooden, single-storey dwellings with tin roofs scattered around a suaru (small mosque).

Native flora that has since disappeared from the city - such as the ketapang, a native coastal tree - grow freely around the kampong.

Though Singapore is now known for its soaring skyline and iconic landmarks like the Marina Bay Sands towers or colourful Gardens by the Bay, up until the 1970s kampongs were found everywhere, with researchers from the National University of Singapore estimating there were as many as 220 found on the island.

Now, a few still exist on surrounding islands, but Lorong Buangkok is the last on the mainland.

As Singapore underwent industrialisation, hundreds of traditional villages were bulldozed to make way for high-rise flats and skyscrapers.

Lorong Buangkok escaped the fate of many other kampongs partly as the area surrounding it was less desirable for development than elsewhere in Singapore.

The other reason is Sng Mui Hong, who has lived nearly her whole life in the village and has a resolute commitment to preserve the sole surviving kampong.

Since the end of Singapore’s lockdown, local guide Kyanta Yap has noticed growing interest in Luong Buangkok.

“It’s not that surprising since no-one can travel, and this is a unique local tourist spot,” he said. “There are also many who visit on their own; the general public, bikers, joggers and even groups organised on Meetup.”

Though the Singapore government has attempted to redevelop the area in the past, an uproar of objections have seen the government grow to appreciate the rural relics and culture the village represents.

“When the time comes for us to finalise our plans for the entire area, the government should work closely with relevant stakeholders to ensure developments are carried out in a holistic and coherent way,” Desmond Lee, the Minister for National Development, has said.

“This must involve deep engagement with the kampong families living there at that time, to understand and consider their needs and interests.”

Nassim, one of the kampong’s residents, said: “It’s good the government now sees the importance of our kampong.

“You need to leave something behind that reminds our young of how this country came about. We came from these humble huts.”

Image credit: Grps / Wikipedia

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Travel International, Singapore, village, sole survivor