Everything you need to know about skiing in Japan
Bitten by the snow bug a little later in life, Over60 community member David Pickering, 61, was completely drawn in by what Japan has to offer in the skiing stakes. Here he shares his knowledge on the land of karaoke and the cherry blossom.
I came to be a “snow tragic” quite late in life. While my early grounding was all in Australia, my passion was really ignited in Japan. Now 61, I want to share some important advice on how to survive and thrive in the unique winter wonderland. Every year for more than a decade, I’ve skied all over Japan from Furano to Niseko on the northern island of Hokkaido, down to Hakuba and Hakkoda on the main island of Honshu. My adventures in the Land of the Rising Sun have been mind-blowing with seemingly boundless powder snow in a country of unique beauty and incredibly friendly people.
Best mountains
Hokkaido (northern island of Japan): Niseko has often been called “Bali on snow”as it has been the go-to destination of Aussies for quite a while now. Known for some of the deepest, lightest powder and best terrain in Japan, if you don’t like crowds go elsewhere. Nearby, Rusutsu has some beautiful tree runs and a memorable snowmobile experience but is also getting a little too crowded. There are not too many bluebird days on Hokkaido so learn to ski in the trees where the visibility is always good. Make sure you wear a helmet. Furano – further to the northwest – can be a lot cooler and is popular with the Japanese but is still excellent and the sun comes out a little more often.
Honshu (main central island of Japan): Nozawa Onsen is one of the oldest resorts in Japan with the ancient Fire Festival a must-see event. In this completely crazy but spectacular event, flaming torch-wielding villagers attack a huge timber fort (shaden) defended by the 25 and 42-year-old men turning it into a huge bonfire. This “ritualised violence” is accompanied by the consumption of enormous quantities of sake – a good time is had by all. Hakuba is a bit like Thredbo on steroids and they do have some big, fast trails, as this is where the Japanese Olympic downhill team trains. Off-piste skiing is definitely not encouraged here but on the good days they open some gates and some beautiful terrain can be accessed. Myoko Kogen is a resort that has something for everybody – good off-piste, lots of varied terrain and very safe. They also have a great hospital where I received first-class treatment for a dislocated thumb sustained when I fell off the lift. Our favourite location is at the very northern tip of Honshu – Hakkoda Mountain. It’s in the Aomori Provence, one of the snowiest parts of the world where the average snowfall is at least five meters with the record at 17 meters. Hakkoda is backcountry heaven and the home to the famous snow monsters – strangely shaped snow covered trees. There is one large ropeway gondola, which transports about 100 brave souls to the top where most head out either guided or unguided to test their mettle in some great backcountry powder. Reasonable fitness is required here as you hike up mountains on snowshoes with your skis strapped to your back. The amount of heat you generate is staggering so you can’t wear too much gear but frostbite then becomes an issue – my nose will heal eventually. The only English-speaking guide when I was there last is Simon - so make sure you book him early.
Off-piste skiing?
If you crave something a little extreme, then off-piste skiing (away from the groomed ski runs) might be something you want to try– and Japan has it in spades, though, it’s not for the faint-hearted! Due to the inherent safety risks of schussing down uneven slopes between trees or deep powder areas, some resorts in Japan don’t really allow it. There is, however, an intrinsic pleasure in being the first person to lay down ski tracks on fresh, deep snow. While the resort ski patrols can be a little overcautious they do have good reason to be at times. Avalanches, tree wells and slippage cracks are ever-present dangers depending on the terrain, snow conditions and weather. Remember to never, ever ski alone and if your group chooses to venture out of bounds make sure you have all the recommended safety gear.
Getting around
The easiest way to travel within Japan is by train, as it is very efficient and reasonably cheap – as long as you get the multi-day passes. These can be pre-purchased through your travel agent and can save a lot of time when trying to make connections. The railway system is a modern marvel – very comfortable and every train leaves on time, to the second! The stations are busy but the English signage is good – just make sure you follow the coloured line to the correct platform. One tip: avoid travelling in Tokyo at peak hour – it’s a tricky journey with your skis, 10-kilo backpack, suitcase and four million Japanese computers – argh! The Shinkansen (bullet trains) are awesome and while travelling at over 200 kilometers per hour, the only thing you hear is the quiet snoring of the Japanese who will sleep anywhere, anytime.
10 tips for skiing in Japan when over-60
- Learn to ski powder quickly – the piste is generally pretty average
- Establish or join a group of like-minded friends who you can travel and ski with –safety in numbers
- When skiing off-piste don’t ski at the back unless you like digging others out of the deep powder
- Take your younger more agile offspring with you to help dig you out of that deep powder and make sure you are at least half as fit as they are
- Don’t bother taking duty-free spirits as it’s just as cheap in the local Seicomart
- Find the location of the nearest onsen (hot spring) immediately on arrival – your aching body will need it every day
- Learn to eat fluently in Japanese – the food is sensational
- Memorise important Japanese phrases starting the day with Good morning – ohayu gozaimasu and finishing at the bar at night with, two beers please – biiru nihai kudasai.
- Always have loose change available as beer can be purchased from vending machines everywhere
- Don’t wear shoes or ask for a western bed on the tatami mats – appallingly bad manners to your host as has been pointed out to me on a number of occasions