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How to prune a hibiscus plant

As past president of the Australian Hibiscus and the International Hibiscus Society, there’s no one better to teach us how to prune hibiscus plants than 87-year-old Over60 community member, Jim Prudie. “This month we will look at the subject of pruning your plants, as this is advisable here in Australia seeing that this is the month that spring arrives and the plants begin to wake from there winter sleep and the sap begins to flow causing the plants to start getting new shoots and if you prune the bush at this time you will get a good shaped bush and better flowers. People in the southern states should wait until the danger of frosts has passed and in the northern hemisphere you will have to adjust the month to coincide with your spring. This condition is brought about by a few things – the most important being that the daylight hours begin to get longer as the sun on its  journey begins to get closer to your country, where ever you may live, be it in the northern or southern hemisphere, and as the sun gets closer, the weather begins to warm up and this causes the sap to flow and in so doing it causes the roots to start drawing more nourishment from the surrounding soil, and the plant goes into growing mode and new shoots begin to appear at the eyes, as opposed to the bare sticks we have been looking at during the winter. We prune our plants for a variety of reasons, and I have listed the most important reasons to get a better bush. 1. To train into a desired shape. 2. To maintain the bush to a manageable size, and open up the bush to the sun by pruning away the middle branches which have grown into the middle thus blocking out the air and light. 3. It helps in the control and to be able to see any attacks of insects. 4. It will encourage stronger growth, as when you shorten the branches when you prune them, it will cause the plant to send out more branches, and as I always say more branches, more flowers. 5. It will get rid of old and weak branches, and those which grown in a crisscross fashion causing a cluttered plant, as well as those that have grown out of shape. 6. If you prune your plants in the spring you help the bush to promote larger and better blooms of good shape and size. Hibiscus thrives on being pruned in the spring, and you do not have to get a stepladder to see the flowers, as the branches get too long. When you prune the tops of the branches, it causes the plant to start shooting down lower and instead of bare sticks you will see a plant covered in nice green leaves, and more branches, and “more branches more flowers”. This happens because when you prune the tops off, it stops the growing cycle from the tip. Whenever I start to prune I try to think how the bush grows, and prune the plant according to the way it grows, by that I mean if the plant is an average grower, I will prune off about a third of the bush, if the bush is a tall fast grower I will prune off about a half, and if the plant is a slow low grower, I will just prune off the tips, otherwise it takes too long to recover if you give it a hard prune, and you will miss out on the flowers for the season and have to wait until next year to see some blooms. I always cut off the low lying branches, usually leaving a 12 inch space under the bush, which allows you to keep under the bush clean and also if there are low lying branches, and a flower appears it drags in the dirt and there is a danger of snails causing damage to the petals. I prune just above an outward pointing eye, using a slanting cut away from the eye, so any water will run away from the eye, and also  encourages the new shoot to grow outwards instead of into the middle of the plant, and as I always try to end up with a pruned bush which is in the shape of a vase. Make sure your secateurs are kept clean and sharp, so that they will give a clean cut, and I like to dip my secateurs into some alcohol or methylated spirits between bushes to prevent spreading disease. Some members do not prune all the branches at one time so they are able to have blooms while they wait for the new growth to flower. These remaining branches can be pruned once the new growth commences flowering. If you are growing in pots this is a good time to think about a root prune at the same time as you prune the top of the plant, and repot into some fresh potting mix, with some slow release fertilizer included in the mix, either into the same size pot if it is the biggest you want to go to, or the next size pot if it is in a small pot. Do not make the pot size too big, When the bush is putting out a lot of new growth this is when I apply a fertilizer high in nitrogen to promote the new growth, and apply this until you see new buds starting to form and then I use a fertilizer higher in potash than nitrogen to promote flowers instead of nice green leaves. A fertiliser I recommend after you have pruned the plants in the ground is the following: two ice cream containers [or two litres] of Blood and Bone, two of superphosphate, one of sulphate of potash, half a can of magnesium sulphate [epsom salts], a quarter of can sulphate of iron. Mix all this all together and apply a good handful around each bush. Then I cover this with good mulch about two to three inches thick to keep the roots cool in hot weather to come and also to prevent the loss of moisture. Later when the blooms appear I use a soluble fertiliser higher in potash than nitrogen with my FertiGator and apply it from the hose attached to the 5000-litre tank with an electric pump. If you follow these instructions you will be well on your way to seeing a healthy bush and plenty of flowers. Image: Getty

Home & Garden

Man fined thousands for unsolicited pruning in neighbourly dispute

When one New Zealand man’s quest for extra sunshine in his bedroom saw him turn his neighbour’s line of trees into stumps, he didn’t expect that it would come with an eyewatering fine. The devastated neighbour took the imprudent gardener to small claims court, where it was found the man, referred to as HL, had trespassed on his neighbours property. The recently released Disputes Tribunal decision said HL had “practically removed” seven Ake Ake trees and several Elaegnus shrubs from his neighbours’ property, the <a href="https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/man-ordered-to-pay-neighbours-7k-for-cutting-their-trees-without-permission/ZFSMBS3EUKKE7AEMEWQKQCQO4I/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">NZ Herald</a> reported. HL was ordered to pay his neighbours, referred to as LG and KG, a hefty $NZD 7478 ($AUD 6800) to replace the trees and cover legal costs. The man admitted he cut the trees but claimed he did it after he and LG agreed they needed to be topped, adding that LG had picked the height at which HL should cut. But LG strongly denied the exchange, stating he had only acknowledged that the trees were hanging over HL’s property and needed trimming. “LG said there was a discussion about how they were to do it, that HL had a chainsaw and that LG would help him trim the overhanging branches and pay the tip fees,” the court decision said. Instead, the tribunal found that HL cut the trees and shrubs without the permission of LG and KG, and did so while they were away from their property for about 45 minutes. With HL unable to prove his version of events, the tribunal accepted LG’s evidence that he only discussed trimming back the overhanging branches with HL. “It does not make sense that LG would agree to taking height off the top of the trees, as that would result in a loss of privacy for him and his wife. THe only party who benefitted from the trees being topped was HL.” Photographs were also submitted to the tribunal, which said that it was impossible for the trees to have simply been topped based on the images. “Topping denotes the removal of the top part of the trees, but implies that some, or perhaps most, of the tree is left to grow. The pictures show that in some cases there are only stumps left, while other trees show some longer level of trunk with trimmed branches. “The pictures do not show that the trees have been trimmed, but rather practically removed.” Image: Getty Images

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When to prune

Ever wondered when the best time is to prune your garden or to grow fruit? This calendar should help you out. <h4>Pruning calendar</h4> Late winter Dormant-prune deciduous fruit trees such as peach, nectarine, apple, pear (always lightly), cherry and European and Japanese plums. Cut back autumn-fruiting raspberries to within a few centimetres of the ground. Begin pinching back cordons and espaliers and rubbing out unwanted vegetative buds to maintain the desired shape. Prune blueberry bushes from the end of harvest through to the following bud break by removing or cutting back old canes. Late winter pruning is ideal. Cut back canes of any newly planted raspberries and hybrid blackberries. Spring Prune apricots in very early spring and before blossom opens. Prune citrus; remove dead or diseased wood and crossed rubbing branches. Remove one limb every three to four years to improve light penetration (the flower bud loss has little effect on yield). Prune passionfruit vines in mid- to late spring. Continue to shape cordons and espaliers during spring by rubbing out vegetative buds that would form unwanted branches and spoil the established shape. Thin the small fruits on early stone and pome fruit trees to improve harvest quality. Summer In the early part of summer, continue judicious fruit thinning on late-season deciduous fruit varieties. Prune gooseberry bushes and white currants after fruiting has finished. Carry out summer pruning on deciduous fruit trees after harvesting in late summer. Only do dwarfed varieties if necessary. Cut out raspberry canes that have fruited. Autumn Complete any summer pruning of deciduous pome and stone fruit trees in early autumn. Cut down the shoots of blackberry hybrids that have fruited. Complete pruning of white currant and gooseberry bushes, and prune red and blackcurrant bushes. Other Tropical trees are usually pruned immediately after fruiting. In the first year this will simply consist of cutting back the leader to about 1 m high. Thereafter, make one thinning cut annually by removing a single limb; this will keep the tree at a manageable size. Bananas are cut to the ground after fruiting. Each plant will be replaced by an emerging sucker. Avocados are pruned lightly immediately after harvest. In the home garden trim only one side or the top of the tree annually. Rotate the part that you trim each year to maximise fruit production. Written by Reader's Digest Editors. This article first appeared in <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/gardeing-tips/when-to-prune">Reader’s Digest.</a> For more of what you love from the world’s best-loved magazine, <a href="http://readersdigest.innovations.com.au/c/readersdigestemailsubscribe?utm_source=over60&utm_medium=articles&utm_campaign=RDSUB&keycode=WRA93V">here’s our best subscription offer</a>.

Home & Garden

How to prune trees and shrubs

Autumn is a very busy time for anyone wanting to prepare their garden for winter. And according to Julie Willis, horticultural advisor for The Diggers Club, pruning is a plant’s best defence against pests and diseases. Julie says the number one job in autumn is to prune stone fruit after fruiting to avoid the risk of bacterial canker. This is a rotting disease that occurs in branches that have split, rubbed against each other, or crossed over while growing. “Always remove any dead, diseased or crossing branches which may rub and cause a wound that can allow disease to enter the plant,” says Julie. What to prune Fruit trees aren’t the only plants that need a cut during autumn. “Cut old canes of blackberries and other hybrid berries to the ground, then tie in new canes which will produce next season’s fruit,” says Julie. Cut back bottlebrush and other spring-flowering natives by about a third, removing all seedheads. Climbing roses that have finished flowering can also be cut back. Or deadhead roses for autumn blooms. Hedges should be given a trim so the new growth can harden up a little before winter and be ready to burst out in spring. Seasonal pruning makes a garden look good and provides plant protection all year round, Julie says. “Pruning any plant allows air and light to penetrate, promotes the ripening of wood for flower and fruit production, and also helps reduce the incidence of pests and diseases. “With regards to timing for pruning, if in doubt, prune after flowering. If the plant is for fruit or berry production, then prune after harvest.’ There is a huge range of pruning equipment on the market, but you should always choose the right type of tool for the job. Look for models with replaceable blades for when you can no longer sharpen the originals. Secateurs Trim back small growth and deadhead flowers to reinvigorate shrubs and flowering plants. Use secateurs on stems and small branches up to 10mm thick. Bypass secateurs are best for fine stems, anvil secateurs for hard woody stems. Look for ergonomic or geared models. TIP: Snips are ideal to use for cutting flowers and lightly trimming soft foliage. Pole pruners High branches in productive trees should be cut back to a level where you can reach the fruit. For other trees, prune to shape. Use a pole pruner, which is like a pair of secateurs on an extendable pole. Power models have a bar cutter at the end and can cut through thick branches with ease. TIP: Pole saws do the same work as powered pole pruners but you provide the grunt. Pruning saws Thick branches growing in the wrong direction or crossing over others need to be removed. Cut them back in stages, making undercuts so the bark doesn’t tear. Use a pruning saw to give you fine control over cuts. Check whether your model cuts on the push or pull stroke, or on both. TIP: Loppers can be used on small branches up to about 35mm. Shears Cut hedges back in autumn to promote tight, green growth that has a chance to harden off before there is frost. Use shears as they let you make very precise cuts for rounded shapes and small hedges. Look for shears with wavy blades and gears to minimise tearing and make the job easier. TIP: Use a powered hedge trimmer to make short work of a long, straight hedge. Pruning basics Most plants have specific pruning needs but there are general guidelines to follow when it comes to making cuts and tool maintenance. <ul> <li>Sharpen cutting tools before pruning to minimise the risk of tearing the bark.</li> <li>Disinfect the tools as you go, particularly between each plant. This stops disease being spread around the garden. Wipe with disinfectant wipes or dip into a bucket of diluted bleach.</li> <li>Make clean cuts and ensure you’re cutting near a node or close to the trunk. Don’t leave stubs on the side of a tree as they make it easy for disease to get in.</li> <li>Cut in stages if you are removing a thick branch. Start on the underside each time then cut from the top to meet the undercut and prevent the bark tearing.</li> <li>Finish a branch removal just above the branch collar, which is the knob the branch grew from.</li> <li>Trim jagged edges with a sharp pruning knife.</li> <li>Seal major cuts with pruning compound, especially if there is borer in your area or the weather is humid. Acrylic paint can also be used, as it eventually washes off but lasts long enough for the tree to form a callus.</li> <li>After pruning check the plant is in good condition. Aerate the soil if needed and water with seaweed tonic.</li> </ul> TIP: Up to a third of a shrub’s branches can be removed each year without affecting its growth. Republished with permission of <a href="http://www.handyman.net.au/how-prune-trees-and-shrubs">Handyman Australia</a>.

Home & Garden

How to prune trees and shrubs

Home & Garden

Sticky prune and ginger teabread

The texture of this irresistible teabread is a mixture of crumbly ginger-spiced cake and a sticky, sweet prune purée that is rippled through it. The teabread keeps well – in fact, it improves after being stored for a day or two – and is a good choice for an energy-giving lunch box sweet. Ingredients: <ul> <li>1 cup (220g) pitted prunes, coarsely chopped</li> <li>100ml strong Earl Grey tea, cooled</li> <li>115g unsalted butter</li> <li>⅓ cup (80g) soft brown sugar</li> <li>¼ cup (90g) golden syrup</li> <li>2 cups (30 g) self-raising flour</li> <li>½ teaspoon baking powder</li> <li>½ teaspoon ground cinnamon</li> <li>1 egg, beaten</li> <li>90ml low-fat milk</li> <li>⅓ cup (75g) glacé ginger, chopped</li> </ul> Method: <ol> <li>Preheat the oven to 160°C.</li> <li>Use baking paper to line a large loaf tin measuring 23 × 13 × 6cm.</li> <li>Place the prunes and tea in a small saucepan and bring to the boil.</li> <li>Reduce the heat, cover the pan and simmer gently for about 10 minutes, or until almost all of the liquid has been absorbed.</li> <li>Tip the prunes into a food processor or blender and process to a fairly smooth purée. Set aside. Place the butter, sugar and golden syrup in a saucepan and heat gently until just melted and smooth. Remove from the heat.</li> <li>Sift the flour, baking powder and cinnamon into a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Add the warm syrup mixture, the egg and milk, and beat well to mix thoroughly.</li> <li>Reserve about 1 tablespoon of the chopped ginger and stir the rest into the cake mixture.</li> <li>Spoon about one-third of the cake mixture into the prepared tin and spread over the bottom.</li> <li>Top with about half the prune purée, spreading it into an even layer. Add another third of the cake mixture and spread out evenly, then spread the remaining prune purée over that.</li> <li>Finally, spoon the remaining batter on top and smooth it out. Sprinkle the reserved chopped ginger over the surface of the cake.</li> <li>Bake for 1-1¼ hours, or until well risen, golden brown and firm to the touch.</li> <li>Cool in the tin for about 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack and leave to cool completely.</li> <li>Wrap in foil and store for at least 24 hours before slicing. The teabread will keep for up to a week.</li> </ol> This article first appeared in <a href="http://www.readersdigest.com.au/recipes/sticky-prune-and-ginger-teabread">Reader’s Digest</a>. For more of what you love from the world’s best-loved magazine, here’s our best subscription <a href="http://readersdigest.innovations.com.au/c/readersdigestsubscribe?utm_source=readersdigest&utm_campaign=RDSUB&utm_medium=display&keycode=WRA85S">offer</a>. <img style="width: 100px !important; height: 100px !important;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7820640/1.png" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/f30947086c8e47b89cb076eb5bb9b3e2" />

Food & Wine

Hazelnut & Prune Scones

It wasn't intentional that this recipe would result in something more reminiscent of scones than cakes, but they are incredibly delicious, so I decided to roll with the recipe, regardless of it being a bit unconventional. The brown butter takes a little while to make but smells incredible and adds a delicious nuttiness. Use plain flour if you prefer and serve warm with an extra slather of good butter. Makes: 24 mini scones Ingredients: <ul> <li>150g butter</li> <li>1 cup pitted prunes</li> <li>60g buckwheat flour</li> <li>60g quinoa flour </li> <li>150g ground almonds</li> <li>1 tsp baking powder</li> <li>1 tsp baking soda</li> <li>Pinch of sea salt</li> <li>2 large free range eggs</li> <li>¼ cup milk of your choice</li> <li>½ cup hazelnuts, roughly chopped</li> </ul> Method: <ol> <li>Preheat the oven to 180C on fan bake. Grease 24 holes of a mini cupcake tray very well.</li> <li>First, make the brown butter. In a saucepan, melt the butter gently over a low heat, stirring occasionally with a whisk, until the milk solids sink to the bottom and it starts to turn golden brown – this should take about 20 minutes. Set aside to cool.</li> <li>Next, puree the pitted prunes in a food processor and set aside.</li> <li>In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine the flours, ground almonds, baking powder, soda and sea salt, and gradually add in the brown butter, eggs and milk. Mix until just combined. Finally, fold through the pureed prunes. </li> <li>Divide the batter between the 24 holes until they are about two-thirds full. Sprinkle each with the chopped hazelnuts. </li> <li>Bake for about 20 minutes or until the baby cakes are golden, springy to the touch and a skewer inserted in their centres comes out clean.</li> </ol> Written by Jordan Rondel. Republished with permission of <a href="https://www.stuff.co.nz/life-style/food-wine/recipes/97914384/recipe-jordan-rondels-glutenfree-hazelnut--prune-scones">Stuff.co.nz.</a>

Food & Wine

6 good reasons to prune your trees

Regular pruning of your trees should be part of your garden maintenance. But what exactly is the purpose or goal of pruning? If you leave your trees to just do their thing, most likely they would be fine. But if you prune them you can enjoy some specific benefits such as: 1. Clearer views from windows One of the most obvious ways to add more sun to your home and improve the view is to prune the trees that are adjacent to doors and windows. You’ll be surprised how much more light this will let in. 2. Less obstruction Pruning can help keep your trees clear of the house, which means less leaf litter in your gutters. It also reduces the risk of your trees hitting power lines or your neighbour’s houses. 3. Reduced risk of accidents from falling limbs Old or damaged trees with dead limbs or rotten branches can be a real hazard. Keep on top of the pruning so that you don’t have to stress about a tree coming through your lounge room window in the event of a big storm. 4. Tree health By removing old or dead limbs from your trees, you reduce the risk of the tree getting overtaken by insects and disease. Your tree can focus on new growth rather than trying to support branches that are beyond help. Just encourage a tree’s natural shape is a great way to improve its ability to grow and flourish. 5. Add more sun to your garden Give the plants on the ground more sun by keeping your trees in check. Too much shade can hinder the growth of your flowers and veggies; so regular pruning can really help. 6. Improve fruit production Many people have fruit trees that either don’t produce much, or they produce fruit that doesn’t taste great. Besides just making a mess of your garden, this is such a waste. Regular pruning can help the tree focus on producing more (and better quality) fruit, as less energy is wasted on extra branches. The same idea applies with trees that produce too much of poor quality fruit – give the tree less branches to focus on in order to improve the final product. How do you keep your trees looking their best? We would love to hear from you in the comments.

Home & Garden

Prune, botrytis wine and amaretti crème caramel

“The Riverina, often referred to as the food bowl of Australia, has some amazing produce, including the prunes, Botrytis Semillon wine (I like McWilliams or De Bortoli) and almonds in this recipe. In fact, 75 per cent of Australian prunes are grown in the area, and I am one of the proud 60 growers in the industry. This recipe is a take on a traditional dessert from Piemonte in Italy crossed with the classic crème caramel, and celebrates the Italian heritage of Griffith.” – Ann Furner, Yenda, NSW Serves: 8–10 <ul> <li>100 g pitted prunes, plus extra, to serve (optional)</li> <li>375 ml botrytis wine</li> <li>100 g caster sugar</li> <li>120 g amaretti biscuits, plus extra, to serve (optional)</li> <li>500 ml milk</li> <li>140 g granulated sugar</li> <li>3 eggs</li> <li>3 egg yolks</li> </ul> Method: <ol> <li>Soak the prunes in the wine overnight.</li> <li>Drain the soaking liquid through a sieve into a small saucepan, reserving 100 ml. Set aside the prunes. Place the saucepan over medium heat and simmer until the soaking liquid has reduced by half. Set aside in a bowl for serving.</li> <li>Place the caster sugar in the saucepan and cook over medium–high heat until it caramelises and is a dark caramel colour. Pour into the bottom of a 22 cm x 12 cm loaf tin. Set aside.</li> <li>Place the amaretti biscuits in a blender or food processor and pulse until roughly chopped. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.</li> <li>Place the soaked prunes in the blender or food processor and blend to form a soft paste. Set aside.</li> <li>Preheat the oven to 150°C. Heat the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it just about comes to the boil. Remove from the heat.</li> <li>Meanwhile, place the granulated sugar, eggs and egg yolks in a medium bowl and whisk until thick. Pour over the hot milk and continue whisking. Add the crushed amaretti biscuits, reserved 100 ml soaking liquid and blended prunes and mix well. Pour the mixture over the caramel in the loaf tin.</li> <li>Place the tin in a large baking dish and fill with hot water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the tin. Cook in the preheated oven for 1 hour and 20 minutes, or until the custard has set. Let the crème caramel cool in the tin before turning it out, inverted, onto a serving plate.</li> <li>Drizzle the reduced cooking liquid over the plated crème caramel. Serve warm or cold with extra amaretti biscuits and prunes, if desired.</li> </ol> What’s your go-to dessert recipe for special occasions? Share it with us in the comments below. <img width="119" height="144" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/23154/australia-cooks-cover-image_119x144.jpg" alt="Australia Cooks - Cover Image (6)" style="float: right;"/>Written by Ann Furner. Recipe courtesy of Australia Cooks edited by Kelli Brett, published by <a href="https://shop.abc.net.au/products/australia-cooks-hbk" target="_blank">ABC Books</a>. Related links: <a href="/lifestyle/food-wine/2016/05/dairy-free-creme-brulee/">Dairy-free crème brûlée</a> <a href="/lifestyle/food-wine/2016/05/mini-banoffee-pies/">Mini banoffee pies</a> <a href="/lifestyle/food-wine/2016/04/strawberry-panna-cotta/">Strawberry panna cotta</a>

Food & Wine

How to prune a hibiscus plant

As past president of the Australian Hibiscus and the International Hibiscus Society, there’s no one better to teach us how to prune hibiscus plants than 87-year-old Over60 community member, Jim Prudie.“This month we will look at the subject of pruning your plants, as this is advisable here in Australia seeing that this is the month that spring arrives and the plants begin to wake from there winter sleep and the sap begins to flow causing the plants to start getting new shoots and if you prune the bush at this time you will get a good shaped bush and better flowers. People in the southern states should wait until the danger of frosts has passed and in the northern hemisphere you will have to adjust the month to coincide with your spring.This condition is brought about by a few things – the most important being that the daylight hours begin to get longer as the sun on its  journey begins to get closer to your country, where ever you may live, be it in the northern or southern hemisphere, and as the sun gets closer, the weather begins to warm up and this causes the sap to flow and in so doing it causes the roots to start drawing more nourishment from the surrounding soil, and the plant goes into growing mode and new shoots begin to appear at the eyes, as opposed to the bare sticks we have been looking at during the winter.We prune our plants for a variety of reasons, and I have listed the most important reasons to get a better bush.1. To train into a desired shape.2. To maintain the bush to a manageable size, and open up the bush to the sun by pruning away the middle branches which have grown into the middle thus blocking out the air and light.3. It helps in the control and to be able to see any attacks of insects.4. It will encourage stronger growth, as when you shorten the branches when you prune them, it will cause the plant to send out more branches, and as I always say more branches, more flowers.5. It will get rid of old and weak branches, and those which grown in a crisscross fashion causing a cluttered plant, as well as those that have grown out of shape.6. If you prune your plants in the spring you help the bush to promote larger and better blooms of good shape and size. Hibiscus thrives on being pruned in the spring, and you do not have to get a stepladder to see the flowers, as the branches get too long. When you prune the tops of the branches, it causes the plant to start shooting down lower and instead of bare sticks you will see a plant covered in nice green leaves, and more branches, and “more branches more flowers”.This happens because when you prune the tops off, it stops the growing cycle from the tip. Whenever I start to prune I try to think how the bush grows, and prune the plant according to the way it grows, by that I mean if the plant is an average grower, I will prune off about a third of the bush, if the bush is a tall fast grower I will prune off about a half, and if the plant is a slow low grower, I will just prune off the tips, otherwise it takes too long to recover if you give it a hard prune, and you will miss out on the flowers for the season and have to wait until next year to see some blooms.I always cut off the low lying branches, usually leaving a 12 inch space under the bush, which allows you to keep under the bush clean and also if there are low lying branches, and a flower appears it drags in the dirt and there is a danger of snails causing damage to the petals.I prune just above an outward pointing eye, using a slanting cut away from the eye, so any water will run away from the eye, and also  encourages the new shoot to grow outwards instead of into the middle of the plant, and as I always try to end up with a pruned bush which is in the shape of a vase.Make sure your secateurs are kept clean and sharp, so that they will give a clean cut, and I like to dip my secateurs into some alcohol or methylated spirits between bushes to prevent spreading disease.Some members do not prune all the branches at one time so they are able to have blooms while they wait for the new growth to flower. These remaining branches can be pruned once the new growth commences flowering.If you are growing in pots this is a good time to think about a root prune at the same time as you prune the top of the plant, and repot into some fresh potting mix, with some slow release fertilizer included in the mix, either into the same size pot if it is the biggest you want to go to, or the next size pot if it is in a small pot.  Do not make the pot size too big, When the bush is putting out a lot of new growth this is when I apply a fertilizer high in nitrogen to promote the new growth, and apply this until you see new buds starting to form and then I use a fertilizer higher in potash than nitrogen to promote flowers instead of nice green leaves.A fertiliser I recommend after you have pruned the plants in the ground is the following: two ice cream containers [or two litres] of Blood and Bone, two of superphosphate, one of sulphate of potash, half a can of magnesium sulphate [epsom salts], a quarter of can sulphate of iron. Mix all this all together and apply a good handful around each bush. Then I cover this with good mulch about two to three inches thick to keep the roots cool in hot weather to come and also to prevent the loss of moisture. Later when the blooms appear I use a soluble fertiliser higher in potash than nitrogen with my FertiGator and apply it from the hose attached to the 5000-litre tank with an electric pump.If you follow these instructions you will be well on your way to seeing a healthy bush and plenty of flowers.

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How to prune a hibiscus plant

Man fined thousands for unsolicited pruning in neighbourly dispute

When to prune

How to prune trees and shrubs

How to prune trees and shrubs

Sticky prune and ginger teabread

Hazelnut & Prune Scones

6 good reasons to prune your trees

Prune, botrytis wine and amaretti crème caramel

How to prune a hibiscus plant

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